Up-cycled Mod for Evvie

IMG_3268

Evelyn asked me if I could make her a dress like Tiana’s.  I told her I didn’t have quite enough material for a dress like that, but I could look at what I have and see what we could make.  She went into my fabric stash and came out with some pieces of a shirt I was going to up-cycle into baby toys.

I knew just the pattern to fit those pieces.  It was a cute McCall’s from the mid-60’s.  Simple little A-line dress with a front pleat.  Turned out that there was just enough fabric to make a dress without pockets.  I also had to chop up the pattern a little and add a contrasting facing for the back, as the original design had the dress back and facing all in one piece and it wouldn’t quite fit on my shirt pieces.

Photo on 1-24-16 at 7.14 PM

My sewing room is like a refrigerator.  Hence the hat. Oh, and this is McCall’s 8001, circa 1965.

I didn’t intend to turn up the sleeves like that, but it looks super cute that way!  My first thought was to cover some buttons with the stripe fabric for the back, but to be honest I just didn’t feel like it.  So instead I opted for some cute vintage blue buttons I happened to have in my stash.  I think I like it even better than how the stripe buttons looked in my mind.

You’ll notice I also had to add a contrasting pleat underlay.  I thought stripes would be too much, so I used some baby wale green corduroy instead.  It was just the right shade to complement the main fabric.

For the hem, I tried out the method we discovered in the 70’s shift.  It was very simple and easy, and looks really good.

Evvie told me once the dress was finished, much to my disappointment, that she thought she’d just save it for summer.  She begrudgingly agreed to do JUST ONE photo shoot for me, and I was very much obliged indeed.  The dress looks pretty adorable with those jeans, don’t ya think?  It’s like a little tunic.  Maybe she’ll change her mind and wear it a few times this winter.

Here are some playing-with-beans action shots!

IMG_3291

IMG_3295

<><><><><>

Yesterday was my big day to go fabric shopping in Dondaemun.  I had several projects to buy fabric and supplies for, including costumes for an upcoming play at my husband’s school, a few dresses for myself, a bag, and some really adorable overalls for the kids.  But true to Korea form, I traveled to Dongdaemun only to find that the entire fabric shopping complex was CLOSED for reasons unknown to me.  I cannot tell you how frustrating this was.  Since I have two kids under 3, it is practically impossible for me to do large-scale fabric shopping with them in tow, so I have to go when my husband is home.  The shopping complex closes at 5pm (GAR!), so I can never make it on the weekdays.  That leaves weekends.  So the next time I’ll be able to get out there is next week, putting me very behind on costuming.

Alas!

I do need to bring my camera and do a post about Dongdaemun.  Oh, fellow sewists–it is like a fairy dream land!  Anything and everything you could EVER WANT for sewing, crafting, knitting and crochet.  Gobs and gobs of it.  Four huge buildings full of it.  It is pretty amazing.

So this week I’ll just spend my time making up a muslin for Tzeital’s wedding dress (they are doing Fiddler on the Roof), and bust my butt making up for lost time next week!  Go with the flow, right?

Bessie

Advertisements

A Dress For Tiana

Have you ever sewn from a vintage Barbie doll sewing pattern?  I’ve collected a few over the years, and now that I have a daughter who has a beloved Tiana Barbie with a small wardrobe, I have been trying some out!

By small wardrobe, I mean she has one outfit.  We found her at a yard sale last year, butt naked.  Evelyn thought she was the most beautiful doll in the world, and I thought it would be fun project to sew her a new wardrobe with my old patterns.  Shortly after we brought her home, I made her this cute little outfit:

It’s been about a year since I made that one.  I’ve been swamped with commissioned sewing lately, and decided for a little creative break today to pull out the vintage Barbie patterns and let Evvie pick a new outfit for Tiana.  We chose Butterick 9993.

IMG_3211

She picked the wedding dress, of course.
IMG_3210

I didn’t have any large pieces of lace, so I used a little lace trim that I had to edge the overskirt.

IMG_3192

A rolled-up dish towel makes pressing tiny tubular skirts and curved seams much easier!

I pinked most seams, and double-turned some others, taking tiny careful stitches along the back edges.  Skirt was finished with a tiny hem stitch.

IMG_3195

Barbie dresses are fun because you get to do a lot of the finishing by hand, but it doesn’t take very long.  Well, unless you have a 3 year old and a 20 month old saying “Mommy!” every two seconds.  But that’s ok!

The dress was very simple, and very easy to make!  I used a small strip of velcro for the back fastener, as it’s a little easier for my daughter to open and close than snaps.

IMG_3201

The overskirt really adds some glamour! If only I had enough lace left for a veil.  We’ll have to add that later.

Evvie was very pleased.  Next I am supposed to make a dress “with flowers on it.”

What have you been sewing lately?

Bessie

Two 60’s Dresses from Korea

Handmade Black Party Dress
This dress has a full skirt with pleats on the front and back and has 3/4 sleeves.  It’s a simple dress, and unlined, but looks absolutely adorable on!  It’s about 1″ too small for me in the waist, but I can squeeze into it if I suck in and hold my breath.  The dress is made of a black poly-something blend with pretty embroider allover.  Very nicely finished and seems to be in great shape!

I’m thinking about taking out the waist a little so I can keep it.  If I do, I’ll take a picture of it actually on so you can appreciate it better than just on the hanger.

 

Mitsukoshi Sheath
I hate that I couldn’t model this for you, but the sleeve lining has come unstitched so I need to repair that before I can wear it.  This is a bombshell dress!  The first time I tried it on, I positively felt like Marilyn Monroe.  Another simple dress, but this one is very much a designer dress with lots of lovely details.  It is by Mitsukoshi, a Japanese designer.  I love the elbow darts and snaps at the forearm.  It is fully lined and made of a pretty black crepe.

Both of these dresses were also on the 5,000 won rack.  Yep, I paid less than $10 for these two lovely specimens!  I guess Koreans are more into 1980’s than 1960’s…

which is fine with me.

Bessie

 

Disassembling A Vintage Dress

photo 1

I bought this old dress the other day at a Korean thrift clothing store called VinPrime.  It was on the 5,000 won rack (which is a little less that $5), and I had picked it up because it was obviously vintage and looked really well-made, and the fabric was pretty awesome.  However I had also found a couple amazing black dresses from the early 60’s, a coat, and a really cute floral shirt and didn’t want to spend too much, so I put it back on the rack.  While I was looking through some other clothes, my husband brought this same dress to me thinking I would like it, and that the fabric would be cool to repurpose into bow ties.  Ok, ok, fine, I’ll buy it!!!

The seams started splitting very badly in the wash, which made me feel a little better about taking this cool dress apart.  The thread used to sew it together was pretty brittle, and I could easily rip the seams just by gently pulling the fabric by hand.

As I got in there, I was more and more impressed with the workmanship.  I took lots of pictures both for my own education and to share with my friends who love garment construction as much as I do.  So without further ado, here are the inner workings of a simple Korean shift dress from the 70’s!

The Basting


This sewer used extensive basting.  Everything was basted by hand.  The lining was basted to the outer garment at the seams.  Made it a little trickier to take apart, but I was impressed!

The Collar

Soooo pretty!

Bound Buttonholes

These were four of the most perfect bound buttonholes I have ever seen.  You can hardly tell the front from the back (front on the left and back on the right).  Lordy.

Sleeve

The sleeve lining was hand-stitched into the garment with lovely, tiny whipstitches.  An extra strip of fabric about 1″ wide was sewn into the top of the armscye for added strength at the shoulder.

Interfacing
photo 5

The seam allowance of the facing was catch-stitched to the interfacing.

Perfectly Pressed Lining

photo 3

Isn’t it just pretty?

The Hem Finish

photo 5

Sorry for the shoddy photo, but don’t you just love the way this hem was finished?  I DO!!!  I can’t wait to try it out.  Looks so nice with only about 1/8″ of the bias binding showing.  Perfect for this type of fabric.  The bias was cut from the lining fabric so that it matched perfectly.

Isn’t it just fun to take a look inside of an old garment?  I find it so inspiring–not to mention, educational.  I saved the strip of buttonholes and under collar for myself, just to look at and admire.  The fabric will be put to good use, and I really can’t wait to use it.  It’s just beautiful, as you can see.

Bound Buttonholes

IMG_3117

Remember how I was going to make that cute Advance shirt dress next?  Well, I changed my mind.

My husband picked up the mail a couple days ago, and much to my delight I had about six or seven little padded envelopes fully of vintage pattern goodness waiting for me!  Inside of such envelope was this beauty:

IMG_3093 IMG_3094

I’ve had some cute lightweight denim with a teeny-tiny bit of stretch in it that I’ve been wanting to put to use.  I found it at this small fabric shop in the town we lived in last year.  When I say small, I mean like the size of a large walk-in closet.  There was barely enough room for me to park my stroller inside the door.  All of the fabric was 3,000 won a yard, which is a little less than $3.00.  They didn’t have a huge selection, but they had some really pretty and surprisingly good quality stuff crammed on the shelves in there!  I bought three yards of this fabric (and a few others), thinking it would make a cute something. 

IMG_3084

(Wrong side shown here–pinning a dart.)

Yesterday I cut everything out, and today, after dinner, while my sweet husband played dollhouse with the kids (I love him), I began to stitch ‘er up!

This dress has a really cute band-like collar with buttons down the front to the waistline and a side zip.  I love the sheath version on the envelope (that is what I am making up now), made with a plaid.  If all goes well with the first one and I like the end result, I may make a plaid one myself.

IMG_3095

As I mentioned, on the band are three buttons and bound buttonholes.

Bound buttonholes!!!

I love bound buttonholes.  I love the way they look, and I love making them.  This is the stuff that really makes me love garment construction–they nitty-gritty detail work that makes the finished product look beautiful.  It’s a fun sort of challenge for me.  Keeps my fingers deft and my mind working.

Since bound buttonholes are a tad time-consuming, I figured I’d take a bunch of pictures and do a little walk-through with you on how I like to make them.  Perhaps it will be helpful to someone, or perhaps there are other bound buttonhole enthusiasts out there who might enjoy going through the process with me.  Perhaps some of you can give me tips on how to improve my buttonhole binding method!

The pattern instructed me to cut out strips of fabric yea-wide and yea-long and fold them in half to form the inner edges of the buttonholes.  I personally like my buttonholes to have a bit more stability, so I always place a piece of string (or yarn–honestly, for me it is almost always a sturdy yarn from my stash) in the center of the fabric strip and then fold it in half and sew.  This just makes the buttonholes look nicer and hold their shape better.

IMG_3086 IMG_3088

So here you see my little buttonhole strips, all pinned and ready to stitch in place!

IMG_3096 IMG_3097

Now it would have been smarter for me to just do one long strip and then cut it down into smaller pieces.  That’s what the Vogue Sewing Book recommends, and it makes much more sense.  Here’s what the afore-mentioned bible of sewing wisdom has to say about this particular method of buttonhole binding (for your reading pleasure):

IMG_3099

Ok, so once you have stitched the little pieces you will want to trim the seam to about 1/8″.  The whole thing should be about 1/4″ wide at this point.  I forgot to take a picture with the seam trimmed, but here it is before.

IMG_3090

You will have drawn on the buttonhole markings from the pattern.  It’s hard to see my chalk marks in the pictures, so I sketched that out for ya on my kids’ easel:

IMG_3119

You can add to this a little box-like sketch if you would like a bit more of a guide while you are stitching.  I like to mark mine like this:

IMG_3120

With chalk or a fabric pen, of course.  The horizontal lines on the top and bottom are the most important, as they indicate where to stop and start your stitching.  You can make those extra wide so that you can see them after you lay the edging pieces down.  It is very important that the stitching lines on both sides are the same length, otherwise your buttonholes will be lopsided and wonky when you turn them.

From here, you lay the edge pieces on the fabric and pin, one at a time, with the outer seam edge lined up with the middle of the buttonhole.  Stitch down the middle.  Backstitch at the beginning and the end, making sure not to go past the stop and start lines.  Here are mine, stitched in place and almost ready to turn!

IMG_3101

Once you have both pieces stitched in place, you need to make an incision in the fabric so that you can turn it.  Below is the line you will need to cut.  Be very careful here, too–you want to cut exactly to the corners (the top and bottom of your stitching lines).  If you cut past them, you will have raw edges that can ravel and tear, and if you come up short, your buttonholes will be bunchy when you turn them.

IMG_3109 IMG_3102

Once you’ve made the incision, it’s time to turn that baby!  Ohhh yeah.  Here’s what that process looks like:

IMG_3110 IMG_3111 IMG_3112

You will need to do something to stabilize the little triangle pieces at the top and bottom of your buttonhole.  Make sure they are turned under and sticking out the back.  I like to press my buttonhole first, to establish a line to sew on.  Then turn the piece around, and fold like this, being careful to keep it straight!

IMG_3104

Next, just stitch across.  I like to stitch forward and then back-stitch over it.

IMG_3105

Ta-daaa!

IMG_3103IMG_3107

Here are my three bound buttonholes.  The middle one turned out the best, but I think they all look purty good!

IMG_3114 IMG_3116

IMG_3115

(Middle buttonhole, in all her glory.)

The backs of these will be finished when it’s time to stitch the facing in place.

This is as far as I got last night, as I ran out of bobbin thread.  My machine was damaged on the trip over here (GAR!), and I’m currently having to wind bobbins by hand, which is tedious, as you can imagine.  Once my new bobbin is wound, I’ll start work on the next step–stitching the collar band to the bodice front and back!  From here on out, I imagine this will go pretty quickly, as long as I can steal away a few minutes here and there to sew.

IMG_3118

(Poor Bernina baby!)

What are your thoughts on bound buttonholes?  Have any tips or pointers to share?  Please do!

Bessie

P.S.  Really wishing I had one more of these–wouldn’t they be cute on this dress??

IMG_3108

A Cozy French Press + Next Project!

IMG_3053
Today I took a look at my French press, and it was looking a little chilly.  I might have actually been projecting my own chilliness onto the French press, but nevertheless, I made up my mind that she needed something cozy to keep her warm.

I’ve actually been meaning to make a cozy for my French press for some time now.  Maybe even years.  Somehow I just keep forgetting about it–the thought flashes through my mind each time I make a pot of coffee and disappears by the time I’ve taken the last sip.

I searched online for some ideas, and found several tutorials and free patterns.  My favorite was from Sew4Home. I liked the general design and construction.  However I wanted my cozy to be a little cozier (as in, fit more closely and tightly around my FP), so I decided to use Sew4Home’s basic plan and tweak it a bit.  (Thanks, Sew4Home!)

To begin, I measured my press.  It is 12.5″ in circumference, and 6″ from the top of the handle to the bottom of the press. I wanted my cozy to start right at the top of the handle, fasten underneath it, and stretch to the bottom, so my pieces ended up looking like this:
IMG_3034 IMG_3032

In retrospect, I’m not sure what I was thinking exactly, but I should have made the main rectangle about an inch wider.  The finished product turned out great, though, so I’m not going to cry about it.

IMG_3028

This (above) is an adorable linen fabric I found in Dongdaemun last year.  I’ve been waiting for the perfect project to use it in, and this was it!  The underside is made from an unbleached medium weight canvas.  I cut a rectangle of cotton batting that was 1/2″ smaller all around than the basic rectangle shape of the pattern.  The batting was 1/2″ smaller all around because I was using a 1/2″ seam allowance, and that would cut back on bulkiness in the seams.

IMG_3025

Ok, I’m sorry, I didn’t take construction pictures because I was too excited and I didn’t think about it.  But basically, I stitched the batting to the center of the underside, stitching 1/16″ from the edge of the batting.  Then I placed the outside fabric on top of the underside, right sides together, and stitched, leaving about a 2″ opening in the bottom edge for turning.  Clipped corners, trimmed seams, turned right-side out, and top-stitched around the entire thing, closing up the opening on the bottom.  I had one little blippity-boop fold at the bottom when I was finished–whoops.  Oh well. Add’s character, right?
IMG_3041

Next I sewed a 1″ wide piece of velcro to each edge.  Box-stitched it.  Oh yeah.

IMG_3045

^ That’s the view from the underside. ^

Here is the *almost* finished product (E said, “Put my coffee cup in the picture, too!”):
IMG_3037

I really thought I was finished.  But as I gazed upon this lovely cozy, in my mind I saw the words “Cozy Coffee” embroidered on the front in gold.  Oh the cuteness!  I had to do it.

IMG_3040

None of the gold-toned floss I had looked right, and I ended up going with a pretty, light blue-grey instead.

IMG_3052

My hands needed to embroider something anyway.  It soothes my soul. ❤

Alright, are you ready for finished product, for real this time?  We tested it out this morning with our Paris Baguette breakfast.  Here it goes!
IMG_3054

IMG_3055

IMG_3056 IMG_3057

What do you think?  Have you made a cozy for your French press?  Do you use a French press?  If you don’t you should try it sometime–it’s one of my favorite methods of brewing coffee.  Mmmmm.

My next project is in muslin-phase right now!  I’ll be posting about it soon, so stay tuned!

IMG_3012

Love,

Bessie

For You

Hey, you.

We miss you.

IMG_2084

We miss you really much.

IMG_2086

IMG_2088

Everyone is getting bigger.

 IMG_2139

Some of us are starting to say new words, like “Wi-boo” (River) and “Batman.”

IMG_2140

We miss snuggling with you.

IMG_2142

We’ve been discovering some new things.  Like nail clippers.

IMG_2144

IMG_2195

Some of us are even taking a stab at modeling.

IMG_2207

IMG_2228

Oh, and one of us finally joined the Saucony club!

IMG_2234

The two smallest of us cause the biggest one to have this look on her face a lot more than usual without you here to save the day.

IMG_2235

We might have gotten you a few presents…

IMG_2237

And one of us is becoming quite the photographer.

We cannot wait to see you.  We think about you every day, and can’t wait for you to call.

We love you.

Love,

B, E & R

A Simple Skirt For Me

DSC07073

Lately I have had my hands full.

Full with two little ones, full with housework to do and meals to make, full with orders for my toy business.  Full with our fun new adventure overseas.  My hands have been full in a joyful, fun, exciting, sometimes crazy, and a little bit stressful sort of way, so it was very nice to have a few moments this afternoon to whip up a simple gathered skirt for myself.

DSC07031 Our local fabric store had a huge sale this past week.  Two yard cuts of fabric for $5!  Can you imagine?  Of course I went hog-wild.  How could I let such a sale get past me without snagging at least 18 yards of fabric?  Amongst the many lovely fabrics I choose was a beautiful brown, western-ish, old-fashioned stripe that instantly made me think “gathered skirt!”

DSC07072 This was a very simple, easy skirt to make.  I constructed it similarly to this DIY at Extra Petite.  Elastic waistband because, let’s just be honest, they are so much more comfortable (and easy–I needed something that I could whip up while kids were entertained).

DSC07083

DSC07084

Because my time is minimal, I used simple techniques like pinking the seams and machine stitching the hem (I used a long zig-zag stitch).  The end result?  It is love!!!

DSC07075

DSC07074

And of course you ALWAYS have to have a fun pocket lining!

DSC07077

Next in line is this number, in this beautiful cotton (that I purchased 4 yards of for $10 the other day…just had to rub it in!):

DSC07080

Anyeonghasayo from Korea!

Bessie

Trash Piles

 

There are a lot of things that I like about Korea.  

Mugs like this

DSC05158

Cute notebooks

DSC05200

Awesome apartment complexes

DSC05190

Things like this

DSC05201

And much more.

But I think one of my favorite things about Korea are the trash piles and the awesome stuff you can find in them.

DSC05182

Now don’t take this the wrong way–I don’t actually like trash, or the way humoungous piles of trash everywhere looks and smells.  Nor do I particularly like the way they do the trash thing here–there are no public trash cans anywhere to be found, so people do things like this:

DSC05181

Which makes things look dirty after awhile.

They try to fool you with these big trash-can-looking things:

DSC05177

Don’t be fooled, American.  These are clothing donation bins.  They are everywhere.  Do not put your trash inside.

In Korea they do not have thrift stores really, so when people are done with items they just put them out in the trash pile.  It is amazing what people will throw away.  Here’s what I found this morning in the pile near our apartment:

DSC05183DSC05184

 

I mean, who doesn’t love Rabbit?!  Man, if I only had a place to hang this thing.

Anyway, this post is dedicated to the awesome trash pile finds that we have accrued thus far.  Prepare yourself for the awesomeness.

<><><>

DSC05174

1. Clock

This was my first trash pile score.  It was something that we needed, but I hadn’t bought yet because I didn’t want to spend the money on a good clock just yet.  I couldn’t believe it when I saw this guy stuck in the pile close to our apartment!  It was a little dirty and did not have batteries, but with some light cleaning and new juice it works and looks great!  I love it!  

 

DSC05171

2. Little Shelf

I love this shelf.  It’s all shabby chic looking and cute.  I have to figure out how to mount it on a cement wall (because all walls are made of cement here), but as soon as I do it is going up in our teeny tiny laundry room to hold laundry stuffs!

 

DSC05160DSC05162

3. Cool Wooden Crate

I. Love. This. Crate.  I didn’t know what I was going to use it for, but I had to take it anyway.  Turns out it works perfectly on our kitchen table!  I put napkins, chop sticks and a water pitcher in there.  Looks so cool!

 

DSC05164

4. Slightly Bigger Shelf

This shelf was pretty rickety when I found it, but just needed a good cleaning and screw tightening.  It is the perfect shape and size to fit outside our bathroom door and hold towels!

 

DSC05170

5. Picture Frames

These picture frames are really nice!  Heavy-duty and high quality.  They housed some rather…erm…interesting art.  (Think metallic naked women.  Classy!)  I’m not sure what I am going to put in these yet.  Maybe some photos of the family back home?

 

DSC05166

6. Toy Kitchen

This might be the best trash pile find yet.  Davis found this one.  It is an adorable little kitchen set!  This thing is nearly perfect, and came with pans, dishes, utensils, play food.  The faucet actually squirts out water.  I would have loved this thing as a kid!  Evvie was spellbound when we showed it to her.  She has been cooking bacon and serving it to us all morning. 😉

 

DSC05186DSC05203

7. Plastic Tray

I’ve been wanting to get a tray of some sort to put on top of our ottoman.  These looked a bit gross in the pile, but just had some dusty stuff on them.  After being cleaned up, it looks fantastic!  I’m most likely going to decorate it–maybe something like this.

 

Are you jealous?  Grossed out?  Intrigued?  Glad you can just go to thrift stores and estate sales instead of having to rummage through trash piles?  THAT is something we thrifters take for granted in the US for sure!

DSC05187

All in all we are really enjoying Korea so far.  We live in a lovely little city.  It’s definitely a lot to get used to for a country girl, but I think it is going to be a fun adventure!

What is your favorite thrift store, yard sale, estate sale, trash pile find?  Tell me about it!

Bessie

 

 

Korea Projects

 

changingtable

Hello Blogsphere!

We have successfully relocated and are getting to know our new surroundings.  One of the first places I had to locate was a good fabric store, and locate one I did!

This store is a-MAZ-ing.  Gorgeous cottons, loads of notions, pillow inserts, stuffing, batting, anything and everything you need.  Most of the fabric was $4 a yard.  Yes, you read that right.  FOUR. DOLLARS. A. YARD.

(Or I guess I should say FOUR. THOUSAND. WON. A. YARD.)

So of course I went overboard and bought like a gazillion yards of fabric.  (Not really, but I did buy a LOT.)

My first project was to make some pillows for our sterile beige vinyl couch.

DSC04033

As you can see, this poor couch needed some coziness.  Badly.  So I took some of the beautiful floral cotton that I bought and made some big pillows with pin tucks that I just love.  I also made a couple smaller pillows using a vintage sheet that I brought with me to make stuffies.  Used the sheet for the MC and the floral fabric for details.  I love how they turned out.

DSC04154

My next project, which happened this afternoon, was to re-cover the raggedy pad for the changing table that we were given.  It’s a really cute little table, but the changing pad cover had torn and it was just kinda yucky.

DSC04151

So I bought some really adorable oilcloth and set to work!

DSC04172

Here are some pics of the process, in case you are interested (I know you are).

DSC04173

DSC04174 (Pinning the corners to fit)

DSC04178 (A sewn corner)

DSC04176 (It fits!!!)

DSC04179 (Stuffing the foam pad into the new lining)

DSC04181

I just love how it turned out!  And I feel much better about changing my babies booties on this nice, clean and adorable changing pad!

Well, that is all for now folks.

Wait, one more thing…

DSC04157

Love,

Bessie